Pasta e Fagioli made with fresh buckwheat noodles

I used to think that making home made pasta ("homemades" if you were raised in South Philly) was really a long and drawn out process, but I realised that the long drawn out part was related to the quantity of pasta you have to make! Now that my kids have flown the coop and it's just Franco and me, making home made pasta is really a snap. Usually 1 large egg and about 1 cup of flour is more than enough for the two of us. And if you are really lazy you can throw the ingredients into a food processer - et voilà - your dough is done in about a minute! And if you have a pasta machine, it really only takes 30 minutes or less from start to finish. I am not talking about electric extruder type machines that can cost over a hundred dollars, but one of those stainless steel manual machine that rolls and cuts your dough into either narrow (tagliolini) or wide (tagliatelle) ribbon noodles. You can buy one in the housewares section of most department stores. 
What I love most about cooking, aside from the delicious results, is the creativity! 
Once you learn the basics, you can pretty much wing it and mix ingredients and ideas to come up with your own particular twist to an old recipe. Today I decided to bring together two really traditional dishes to create my own version of pasta and beans, using pizzoccheri instead of the more traditional durum wheat pasta.
Pasta e Fagioli - pasta and beans - is a traditional meatless Italian dish. Very hearty and very healthy. It can be fixed in a variety of ways, depending on the regional recipe you choose. It can be rather brothy and eaten with a spoon, or quite thick in consistency and eaten with a fork. My father-in-law, being from Campania, followed the Neapolitan tradition and cooked the pasta with the beans, resulting in a thick, hearty one dish meal. I prefer my pasta and beans "in bianco" - that is with no tomato sauce added. I season it with extra virgin olive oil, lots of garlic and chopped fresh parsely. 
I love home made pasta. I particularly love "pizzoccheri" which are short ribbon noodles made with buckwheat flour and are typical of the Lombardia region of Italy, more specifically the Valtellina. It is a traditional pasta with a very long history, probably dating back to the mid 1500s when buckwheat was first introduced into the Valtellina area. Buckwheat is grano saraceno in Italian, used to make buckwheat flour - furmentùn or farìna négra - in the local dialect. Now the traditional recipe for using pizzoccheri is very rich and includes cabbage, lots of butter, 2 or 3 types of fatty local cheeses and potatoes. But today I am making them with beans!

So let's get started.

If you are starting with dry beans, you should start the night before and soak the beans overnight. Then the next day, cook them until done. Season with salt, pepper, olive oil, garlic and parsely. If you are using canned or fresh beans, they don't need to be soaked over night.

Rather than the typical pizzoccheri made with white flour, buckwheat flour and warm water, I opted for making them with 2/3 cup buckwheat flour, 1/3 cup semolina flour, 1 large egg, 1 T olive oil, and water as needed. I mixed together the flours, the egg and the oil to obtain a rather stiff dough. I added about a tablespoon of warm water as I was mixing because the dough was a bit too stiff. You need to work the dough about 5 minutes by hand. If you have a food processor or kitchen-aid go ahead and use it to make the dough.
Let the dough rest for about 10 min.

I cut my dough in several pieces before I start rolling it out, to save time as I go along. We are looking for a rather thick noodle. 

My pasta machine can roll the pasta out to 8 thicknesses. 

For these noodles I stopped at the 5th thickness setting. I usually roll all the pieces on one setting, and then go on to the next, and so on. This way I don't have to keep resetting the thickness.

The sheets of dough should be "translucent" and about 1/4" thick. 

When all of the sheets have been rolled out to the right thickness, cut the sheets in to about 4"  lengths. We are looking for a short noodle that will amalgamate well with the cooked beans. 

I usually let the sheets of dough dry for about 10 to 15 minutes before cutting them so the noodles don't stick together. At this point put a large pot of water on to boil. 

I don't cook the "homemades" together with the beans because the results would be too starchy. I cook the noodles separately for about 1 minute - that's all fresh pasta takes - and then add them to the beans and cook for about another 30 seconds so all of the flavours blend together.

Drain the noodles and add to the beans, stir over high heat for about 30 seconds, taste and correct the seasoning. You may need to add some more extra virgin olive oil. That's it! 

And as Julia Child would have said had she spoken Italian... BUON APPETITO!

"Ricci" - typical pasta of Minori, on the Amalfi Coast

Here we are at the end of our series on pasta from the Amalfi Coast.
The first time my husband, then fiancè, took me to meet his relatives in Minori on the Amalfi Coast, his Aunt prepared a most delicious meal. The pasta course was "ricci" with tomato sauce. After some 38 years I have finally mastered the art of making "ricci". The word "ricci" means curls, a most appropriate name for these little pasta ringlets!



Ingredients for about 1lb of ricci

2 cups reground semolina
2 cups semolina
(if you cannot find this type of flour, substitute 3 cups all-purpose flour and 1 cup of raw cream of wheat)
about 2/3- 1 cup very warm water, it should feel quite hot on your wrist
a couple of tablespoons of olive oil
pinch of salt

Mix flour, salt, oil and warm water in a bowl. Add the water gradually. And mix well. We are looking to make a rather stiff dough, much stiffer than bread dough. Knead the dough well. As you can see in the video it is a stiff dough and will take some elbow grease to knead it!

Now you are ready to make the ricci. In the videos below, I demonstrate how to make the ricci using very slow movements. Once you get the hang of it, you will find that you can go much more quickly. The ladies in Minori use the metal spokes from an old umbrella to make the ricci. I use a size "0" short double pointed knitting needle. The kind you would use to make socks ...

You can serve ricci with any pasta sauce. Since this is a very delicate pasta, I prefer a simple tomato sauce made with plum tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper and basil.

You can cook the ricci immediately, in this case they only take about 2 minutes to cook. This recipe should give you 4 to 6 portions.

You can also let the ricci air dry, you may want to cover them with a clean dish towel. When dry, they take about 6 minutes to cook.

And there you have it! Have fun experimenting with Scialatielli, 'Ndunderi and Ricci!

Buon appetito!

'Ndunderi, declared to be one of the most ancient forms of pasta by UNESCO

'Ndunderi is a dumpling like pasta dating back to the ancient Romans which originated in Minori, on the Amalfi Coast. The real 'ndunderi were quite large, about the size of a dumpling. But I prefer this smaller, more delicate version.
In the photo to the left they are seasoned with a simple tomato sauce. But they are delicious with pesto, walnut pesto and even just melted butter with fresh herbs and grated parmigiano cheese.

Ingredients for 4 servings
3/4 cup semola flour +3/4 cup or reground semola flour (if you can't find these flours, you can use 3/4 c. all purpose flour + 3/4 c. cream of wheat)
1/2 lb ricotta
1 whole egg + 1 egg yolk
freshly grated nutmet
2 or 3 tablespoons of grated pecorino or parmigiano
1/2 tsp salt

 Place all ingredients in a bowl and mix. I start with a fork and when it starts to hold together I use my hands.

 Turn the dough out onto a floured board and knead for 5 minutes. The dough will be fairly stiff.

 Cut of a small piece and roll into a rope about the thickness of your index finger.

Cut into 1" pieces (more or less)

Now comes the tricky part. Hold a fork with the tines on the board and the bottom side of the fork towards you. Take each little piece of pasta and using your index finger roll it off the back of the fork, pressing as you roll it so that you form a concave hollow on one side with your finger and ridges on the other side with the tines of the fork.



This is what your 'ndunderi should look like. This is the same method you use to make potato gnocchi.

 Place the 'ndunderi in floured boards or trays so that are not touching.

 To cook: bring a large pot of water to a full rolling boil. Salt the water. Put the 'ndunderi in to the boiling water. Let them cook about 3 to 4 minutes. The will start floating to the surface when they are done. 'Ndunderi have a rather firm texture because of the semola.

Drain in a colander and season with your preferred sauce. If you opt for the melted butter and fresh herbs, a good mix is parsely, basil, marjorum, thyme, chives along with some chopped garlic.


and.. as Julia would have said had she spoke Latin

Iubeo ut bene cenes! 




a special thank you to Antonio for filming the video!

Scialatielli!!!

Today we begin our series on pasta from the Amalfi Coast and we are starting with the newest of the three types of pasta I will be sharing with you.

Scialatielli - ribbon noodles, thicker and shorter than tagliatelle. The name originates from the Neapolitan dialect for "to tousle", as in someone's hair - "sciglià". In fact, when served up in your plate, scialatielli have a tousled look!

Scialatielli are a relatively new type of pasta, prepared and served for the first time by Chef Enrico Cosentino in the late 1960s. Cosentino was born in Amalfi, where he continues to work as consultant to the world's most important and prestigious hotels and restaurants. This pasta is delicious served with fish and seafood sauces. But scialatielli are also scrumptious when served with a delicate tomato sauce, which I will also be making today.

I will not be rolling and cutting the pasta by hand because I am a real lazybones! I am going to be using one of these:

Ingredients for 2 large servings:

1/2 cup durum wheat flour (if you can't find this then use semolina or raw cream of wheat), 1/2 all purpose flour, 1 egg, about 1 tablespoon of grated pecorino cheese, about 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, about 4 ounces milk, a pinch of salt, a pinch of freshly ground pepper, about 6 large basil leaves, washed, dried and julienned

I use a low bowl to mix in, never could do it right on the board! And it tastes just as good! Combine all dry ingredients + julienned basil, mix well. Form a well in the center of the flour mix and add the egg, oil and half of milk. Mix with a fork, You are looking for a fairly stiff dough. If it is too stiff, add more milk. If it is too wet, add a little all purpose flour. If necessary, use all of the milk. I find that the weather really influences how much flour and liquid the dough takes.

Turn the dough out onto a clean counter top or large wooden board and start to knead it. Try not to add too much flour, but you don't want it to stick to the work surface. 

Knead it for about 5 to 10 minutes.

When you have a smooth dough, flour the ball and cover it with a clean towel, and let it rest for about 15 minutes. 

I learned alot about cooking from my mom, but I also learned an important tip from my dad! Clean up as you go along. So while your dough is resting, wash up the dishes and clean up your counter. Set up your pasta machine if you have one. Otherwise, get out your rolling pin.

Now, uncover your dough, knead it a couple of times. Your dough should look more or less like this. It should be fairly stiff, smooth and should have a uniform grain inside. It will have lovely, fragrant bits of basil distributed throughout.

If you don't have a pasta machine, roll your dough out until it is about 3 mm thick. When rolling out pasta, you always start from the center and roll towards the edges. The idea is to get a big circle of dough. Which you will allow to dry for about 15 minutes before cutting.

Instead, if you are lazy, like me, you will use a pasta machine! Start on the largest thickness. I usually cut my dough into smaller pieces, roll them in flour and the put each piece through on the largest thickness 3 or 4 times. I do this with all of the pieces before moving on to the next thickness. 

On my machine, I went down to the 3rd thickness to get sheets about 3mm thick. You are not looking for as thin a sheet as you would use for tagliatelle! You are looking for a rather thick sheet. 3mm is about 1/8th of an inch.

Ok, now lightly flour your sheets of rolled out pasta and let them dry for about 15 minutes.. which will give you just enough time to make a quick, delicious tomato sauce

In a frying pan, sauté a couple of cloves of peeled garlic in a couple of tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Don't let the garlic get too brown or your sauce will have a burnt taste and we want a light, delicate sauce! Add about 2 cups of pureed plum or San Marzano tomatoes, salt and pepper to tast, Add a sprig of fresh basil. When it comes to a boil, lower to a slow simmer and let it cook while you finish up making your scialatielli.

You will also have enough time to make a garden salad to complete your meal along with some hot crusty Italian bread!

By now your pasta is ready to cut. If you are cutting it by hand, flower the circle of pasta and roll it up lightly. Use a very sharp, long bladed knife to cut 1/4" noodles. Use one downward cut to make each noodle, do not use a sawing motion! When you are done cutting the noodles, grab about 5 at a time, shake them loose and cut them into 5 ot 6 inch lengths.

For all you lazybones out there, cut each sheet into 5 to 6 inch lengths and use the widest noodle template to cut your pasta into scialatielli.

As you cut your "scialatielli" separate them and spread them out on a floured surface so they don't stick together. 

Put a large pot of water on to boil. When it comes to a boil, salt it and put the pasta in to cook. The scialatielli will take about 3 to 4 minutes to cook.

Now, drain the pasta. Season with the fresh sauce you just made. Serve with grated pecorino or parmigiano cheese 

and.. as Julia Child would have said, had she spoken italian....BUON APPETITO!






special thanks to my son Antonio for help with photos and videos.

A touch of Le Marche... Pasta with sausage, peas and cream

The cuisine of the Marche region is very rich in meats: sausages, braised roasts, prosciutto, lonzino, dried sausages and more!
When I had my restaurant in Cagli, one of the favorites on the menu was Tortellini alla Montanara - Tortellini with sausage, mushrooms, peas and panna. Another was "Penne alla Norcina" - pencil points with sausage, brandy and cream - an Umbrian speciality.
Today I sort of brought them together and the result was delicious!

For two healthy servings:
2 italian sausages
1 - 1.5 cups frozen peas
a splash of white wine
extra virgin olive oil
heavy cream
6 ounces of short pasta - I used orecchiette because that's what I had on hand.


Remove the sausage from its casing and break it up in a non stick fry pan. Crumble it with a fork as it fries, let it get nice and browned but not crisp. Drain off the fat. Add a splash of white wine and allow to evaporate. Add a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil and the frozen peas, cover and let simmer while the pasta cooks.

Cook the pasta in salted boiling water. Drain when "al dente". Add the pasta to the meat mix in the fry pan. Add about 1/2 cup of heavy cream and stir over medium heat until all of the pasta is covered with the sauce. Taste and add salt if necessary. I didn't add any, the sausage was seasoned enough!
Serve with freshly grated parmigiano cheese and freshly ground pepper.

Buon appetito!

Italian Soul Food!

Last night my heat turned on in the middle of the night for the first time this year, so it must have gotten quite chilly because I have my thermostat set on 18°C; that would be just over 64°F.
Today was a beautiful, crisp, sunny day. It was great to put on a sweater and actually need it! Yes... I love cool weather!
I had a busy morning and before I knew it.... time to fix lunch! Something quick, nutritious and delicious! I opted for Pasta e Fagioli but this time with the addition of Italian sausage. The result was delizioso and it only took about 20 minutes to prepare!


So here goes!

For two healthy servings:

200g (7oz) of a small pasta (I used pennette lisce)
1 small can of borlotti beans
1 or 2 links of Italian sausage
1 clove of garlic
Extra virgin olive oil
a handful of fresh parsely, washed and chopped
hot pepper, to taste
salt and pepper, to taste

Take the sausage out of the skin, put in a large pot to sauté. As it cooks, break it up with a fork. Add the whole clove of garlic. Cook the sausage through and let it brown slightly. At this point, if you want, you can drain off the fat.
Add the drained and rinsed beans to the sausage and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil. Add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Add the pasta. When it comes back to a boil, lower the heat to medium. Stir often, because it WILL stick! Add more water a little at a time, we are not looking for a soupy consistency but a thick and creamy one. This is why we use only just enough water and continue to stir. When it is almost cooked add the parsely and the hot pepper. Taste and salt and pepper to taste.
When the pasta is "al dente" turn off the heat and serve! Italian Soul Food! Buon appetito!

The frost is on the pumpkin.. perfect weather for...

Riso e Fagioli!
(Rice and beans)

Fresh Borlotti beans
(if you are lucky enough to find them, otherwise you can use canned or dried Borlotti beans) Borlotti beans are the white ones with read streaks.
Rice
Oil
Garlic
Parsley

Shuck and wash the beans (for two people I use about a 1/2 lb in the husks. Dry, about 5 oz for two people, one medium size can)

Pour a couple of tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil into a large saucepan and saute a couple of cloves of garlic.

Add the beans with enough water to cover. Salt and bring to a rolling boil. Lower heat and simmer until the beans are cooked (if fresh, about 45 minutes, if dry follow directions on the package. If you are using canned beans, rinse and add to the garlic and oil, just cover with water and bring to a boil).

 Weigh or measure out the rice. I use about 1/3 of a pound for 2 servings.

 Add the rice to the beans, add more water if necessary. If you like you may add 1/2 bouillon cube, or a 1/2 t. of granulated bouillon. Taste and correct seasonings. At this point, you can also add some hot pepper.

 Wash and coarsely chop a bunch of fresh Italian parsley.

 Add the parsley to the pot. Continue to cook until the rice is cooked. Depending on how soupy you want your pasta and rice to be, add water.

When the rice is almost done, use a wooden spoon to smash some of the beans against the side of the pot, and stir down for a creamy texture.

Transfer to serving dish and drizzle some extra virgin olive oil over the beans and rice.









After this hearty one-dish meal, the perfect dessert is a fresh "macedonia di frutta"
For an even tastier fruit salad, drizzle the top with Cointreau or Limoncello!

and... as Julia Child would have said, had she spoken Italian...

BUON APPETITO!